Wednesday, 3 August 2011

Ssese Island chill out.

Moving away from Entebbe and onto Lake Victoria
So we'd made it safely to Uganda and time for our first adventure before heading on to Mbarara to work. The Ssese Islands lie in the northern part of Lake Victoria and have been a popular destination to escape the hectic lifestyle of the mainland.

The MV Kalangala ferried us across the equator to Buggala Island. We celebrated the event with a 'Stoney' - a ginger ale drink that is suspiciously drinkable and one we must find a way to bring back home! Quite fiery and guaranteed to give you the Stoney sneeze...

First glimpse of Ssese Islands...
Having spent the last few days in a rainy Entebbe we arrived to glorious sunshine. We walked from the ferry to our campsite along pristine white beaches - straight out of holiday brochure. The only downside was the 'attack of the aphids'. As we walked through the bush swarms of tiny aphids formed thick clouds around us which made for tough going. Our slight uncertainty of our first night at Hornbill camp site was compounded when all we could here for a while from our tent was a combination of hard German rock music (from the owners) and the steady beat of Ugandan pop (from the village disco)! However it didn't take long to settle down and the sounds of the jungle came to life.

Hornbill Camp Art by Nimo
Hornbill (motto: we who are different from others) is run by a German couple whom have ben there for 20 years and developed it from a one-tent-camp into a pretty funky place to stay. I can't forget to mention Shaka Zulu their dog - think Hound of the Baskervilles and you might be close! We pitched our tent under the jungle canopy with the beach and lake no more than 20m away, and as a huge campfire was lit watched a beautiful sunset across mercury waters. Aphids - all is forgiven...

Hugo brushing Jimi Hendrix's teeth by the outdoor showers
The famous Hornbill, think "Apocalypse Now"
Our alarm call was akin to the opening seen of Apocolypse Now. As we crawled out of tent there was a destinct lack of helicopters but instead 2 large birds swooping through the tree-tops. These were the Hornbills that the camp is named after. They have a slightly onemous demanour as they sit in the trees sharpening their beaks whilst eyeing you up, not helped by the local's belief that they ferry the souls of the recently departed to the afterlife - slightly unfortunate as they are not the best at flying!
Our beach.


After lazing around for a solid 48 hours enjoying the outstanding wildlife around us we became more active again. Katie decided a spot of monkey stalking was in order to get the perfect photo for Finley - both monkey and Katie ended up a little closer than planned - not sure who was more shocked but ShakaZulu came bounding to the rescue!

We had a good walk around the neighbouring village and into the jungle. As you entered the vilage you could smell the main source of income. Carpets of small fish lined the paths drying in the afternoon sun. Fising is the villagers main, and pretty much only income. Unfortunately fish stocks in the lake are rapidly dwindiling making any form of income increasingly difficult. Despite this we were soon followed by groups of smiley happy children excited, or amused to see a 'mzungu' in the village and keen to practice their English.

The beautiful and ever smiling Janet and Lillian
Although fish was not on the menu we were lucky to have 2 fantastic cooks at the campsite. Lillian and Janet kept the place going and served up some fantastic dishes. Particular favourites had to be the banana pancakes and fruit salad (mango, passion fruit, pinapple...) and we never thought we'd be eating pizza in the middle of the jungle cooked in an old stone oven. It took some time in coming but boy did it taste good!




It was the perfect few days to relax before reaching Mbarara. Quite a journey ahead of us to reach there but hopefully all will go smoothly. For now, another night under the African night sky looking at the milkyway and enjoying a Nile Special.


Good night.

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